Destination Known | Havana
Havana (a.k.a. ooh na na) was everything we could’ve asked for in a vacay; from the quick flight, delish comida, freshest-ever cocktails, and stunning weather to the warmest/ most bebe-obsessed locals y niñeras, we are SMITTEN. Truth be told we personally hit 10% of the recommendations below given the cutest accessory we had in tow; but, I’m including them all as we fully intend on doing them next trip and my girlfriend’s sister who gave us these is to be trusted on fun and fine places.
Travel | From the US as of Dec 2018
I read this Forbes article from April 2018 entitled “Yes, Americans can still go to Cuba,” booked us a private tour guide and crossed my fingers that I didn’t somehow miss a requirement that would cost us the trip. What did we learn? Traveling to Cuba is no different than traveling elsewhere with the additional of a couple minor admin procedures for good measure.
Flight: We flew direct on United from Houston. There’s a counter in the E terminal devoted to Havana check-in; you must check-in here with one of United’s finest. Once you’re in line, have someone in your party visit the counter selling Cuban visas/ tourist cards. These are $75 per person (a tiny human is unfortunately included in this description). Then, visit the United check-in/ baggage counter and when questioned re: purpose of travel, state “in support of the Cuban people.” Voila!
Baggage: We checked bags and waited a max of 10 min in Havana to collect them which delivered one fantastically false sense of security about the ease of traveling with a baby. If you too find yourself carrying $250 and 20 lbs of autoparts for your tour guide’s classic car, just know that we didn’t have a problem getting these through (without declaration).
Stay
I used to love a good budget friendly option, after all “we’re never in the room.” FFWD: we live and die by 4 hrs of daytime naps so we’re in fact ALWAYS in our room; as such, we stayed at Cuba’s only 5-star hotel (opened in 2017):
Splurge | Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski
This place made our stay for more reasons than one:
Rooftop pool, bar, and restaurant with 180 degree views of historic Havana
Concierge team was top notch, creating, coordinating, and confirming every detail of our stay
Cigar bar, lobby bar, rum bar, rooftop bar
BABYSITTING ON STAFF FOR $10/HR
Save | a little
Hotel Saratoga: If you’re on the ever more crowded Jay-Z/ Queen Bey fan bandwagon, you’ll care that they stayed here in 2013
Save | a lot
Homestay in a “casa particular”: This was previously your only option for staying in Havana, but now that it’s not - I wouldn’t. This rec coming from the girl who hacked it in rural Uganda for a year. We just spoke to too many people who had less than stellar, vacation-ruining stays (no running water, non-filtered water causing a stomach storm etc.). I suppose though that I’d trust Conde Nast Traveler to hook me up with a decent spot.
Eat | w/ reservations
Vedado
Atelier: Beautiful old home, long traditional delicious meal, great mojitos.
Miramar
Rio Mar: Upscale modern restaurant with great seafood and a romantic outdoor patio overlooking the water
La Fontana: Trendy American celeb spot with a lounge/ restraurant and fish ponds
Habana Vieja
Al Carbon: A MUST. traditional restaurant with the most festive/ eclectic decor, insane food and the most creative cocktails
El Ancla: located on the Callejón de los Peluqueros or Hairdresser’s Alley (you won’t find this name on maps so don’t wander frantically like tourists) this quaint bistro-light lit spot will not disappoint. We spent NYE here and got the lobster lovers deal ($40 USD for 2), cocktails, food, and night away of a lifetime!
Azucar: 2nd floor al fresco views of the expansive Plaza Vieja, delish food and, at risk of sounding repetitive AMAZING daiquiri
El Del Frente: Modern slightly hidden restaurant on the second floor with great outdoor terrace, incredible food and huge gourmet cocktails
La Guarida: The most famous/ celeb favorite spot in Havana with Incredible food. Beautifully chic yet traditional and sophisticated. Go for a late dinner and then head up to the rooftop for a night’s worth of cocktails and close talk sans baby.
Al Cocinero: Eat here on Thr/Fri/Sat night (7:30p) so you can head next door to FAC and beat the line (before 9:30p)
Eat | w/ no reservations for coffee, lunch, or drinks
Habana Vieja
Cafe O'Reilly: coffee
Dona Eutimia: Intimate, lovely local spot
Hotel Ambos Mundos go to rooftop for fabulous views and drinks during the day
La Terraza: “best BBQ” and views
Paladar Moneda: go for the second floor patio views
Miramar
Vista Mar: enjoy cocktails w/ sea view and pool
Cocina de Lilliam: private home
Vedado
Hotel Nacional de Cuba: enjoy a drink on the lawn overlooking the oceans at this historic hotel
La Mamaine: Outdoor breakfast spot with omelettes, smoothies and frozen coffee
Café Laurent: located on top of a residential apartment building, ask for a seat on the terrace and enjoy an ocean-view lunch
Night Out
Fabrica De Arte Cubano (FAC): super cool art gallery and nightclub
El Floridita (Havana Vieja) famous daiquiri bar that looks like it’s on a movie set across from the Gran Manzana Kempinski; live music at night, lively with tourists but fun and worth a visit
Casa Abel Cigar Bar and Restaurant: run by Jose Abel Espósito Díaz, who spent 19 years working for Partagas
Bodeguita: classic bar that’s been around since the 40’s and counts artists and celebrities as it’s clientele, don’t miss their photos or a chance to sign your name on the wall
Cabaret Tropicana (Miramar) outdoor Vegas-style cabaret show that’s been around since 1939
Sia kara cafe (Centro Habana) cool bohemian bar popular with younger locals
Explore
We did 3 half-day morning tours with an awesome private tour guide (leave a comment if you’d like his contact).
Day 1 Walking tour of Habana Vieja and the historical center of Habana - even though you’ll want to hop right into the classic car on day 1, we wish we’d walked Habana first so you get the lay of the land around the hotel to benefit your entire stay
Day 2 Classic car tour w/ loads of history and sites: Neighborhoods (Vedado, Miramar), The Capitol Building of Havana, The University of Havana, The Revolution Square, forest of Havana, The National Hotel of Cuba
Day 3 Fusterlandia: don’t miss a visit to the residence and studio of Cuba’s most famous artist that doesn’t disappoint as a wacky, incredible, mosaic-filled “homage to Gaudi”
Day 3 Cajellon de Hamel: ecclectic 2-block artist alley that pays homage to afro-cuban culture with very loud rumba performances and funky voodoo shops
Santa Maria del Mar: beautiful beach 20-30 min taxi ride from Habana with rental chairs and umbrellas